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Facial skin peeling with ferulic acid

, medical expert
Last reviewed: 12.03.2022
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Especially popular among cosmetic procedures is superficial chemical peeling, which helps to eliminate certain skin problems and improve the texture of the epidermis. Such a procedure is peeling with ferulic acid.

Indications for the procedure

Ferul peeling uses phenolic 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic or ferulic acid to remove dead skin cells from the surface layer of the skin. The main pharmacological property of this lipophilic carboxylic acid is the ability to inhibit the process of oxidative degradation (peroxidation) of lipids when free radicals damage skin cells, that is, an antioxidant effect.

It has also been proven that ferulic acid exhibits a wide range of biological activities, such as anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antiallergic, hepatoprotective, anticarcinogenic, antithrombotic, increases sperm viability, antiviral and vasodilating effects, metal chelation, modulation of enzyme activity, activation of transcription factors, gene expression and transmission signals. [1]

More information -  Free radicals and antioxidants

According to the results of research, ferulic acid (well penetrating through the stratum corneum) helps to maintain intracellular antioxidant defense systems of keratinocytes, fibroblasts, collagen and elastin, which makes it reasonable to include it in cosmetic products for mature skin care. And due to its ability to inhibit the activity of thyrokinase, the main enzyme in the formation of skin pigment (melanin), this acid is able to cope with hyperpigmentation of the skin. [2]

Ferulic acid is a strong UV absorber  [3]. Ferulic acid alone or in combination with vitamin E and vitamin C provides approximately 4-8-fold protection against radiation damage. [4]

Indications for these cosmetic procedures include:

Preparation

What is the preparation for the ferulic acid peel procedure? Beauticians  recommend:

  • avoid waxing, electrotherapy, hair removal and laser hair removal creams, and topical corticosteroids for at least a week before any chemical peel;
  • stop using any topical products containing retinol, benzoyl peroxide or hydroxy acids (AHA), i.e. Whitening creams, blackhead creams, acne creams, etc. - also a week before peeling.

Do not do a chemical peel if the patient has not recovered the skin after other recent cosmetic or surgical procedures on the face.

Technique of the ferul peeling

The technique of ferul peeling can vary slightly - depending on the chosen product (the presence of certain ingredients in its composition, for example, trichloroacetic acid) and the problem for which this manipulation is performed.

The basic protocol for a ferul peeling procedure includes the following steps:

  • removal of make-up with cosmetics appropriate to the type of skin;
  • cleansing the skin with a medical degreaser or liposomal cleanser (as a lotion) to remove sebum;
  • applying a peeling agent to cleansed skin;
  • exposure of the applied composition (the duration of which varies from 3-5 to 10-15 minutes) - until it is completely dry;
  • cleansing the skin of the remnants of the composition (use liquids or gels that neutralize the acid);
  • applying a protective agent (cream or mask) to dry skin.

Ferulic acid peels

Today, a number of special peeling products with ferulic acid are produced.

Ferul peeling Sesderma (Sesderma) is produced by the Spanish company SesDermaLaboratories: ТМ Mediderma SesGlicopeel. So, ferul peeling Mediderma (Mediderma) - Ferulac peel classic Mediderma - contains ferulic acid and the polyphenol antioxidant phloretin.

In addition to these ingredients, Ferulac peel plus Mediderma contains retinol (which is involved in the differentiation of epithelial cells) and organic keratolytic hydroxy acids (AHA), which cleanse the skin of dead skin cells: milk, apple and citric.

And Mediderma Ferulac nano additive mist with ferulic acid and phloretin also contains azelaic acid (which helps reduce oily skin and get rid of acne); vitamin B3 (nicotinic acid) necessary for the formation of a protective mantle of the skin; retinol, ceramides (skin lipids) and zinc, which accelerates the regeneration of skin cells.

The same manufacturer ferul peeling Valencia (SesDerma Valencia Peel). It contains ferulic acid (6%), keratolytics and exfoliants - salicylic and trichloroacetic acids (5% and 10%, respectively), as well as ascorbic acid and vegetable skin bleach arbutin. This remedy can be used as a ferulic peeling for acne scars.

Spanish production (Simildiet Laboratorios) and combined ferulic peeling Simildiet (Simildiet), which, in addition to ferulic, contains lactic, citric and malic acids.

Ferul peeling Biomatrix (BioMatrix, France) - ferulic-mandelic, with the addition of mandelic acid (as a keratolytic and sebum production regulator).

Pleyana Ferul Peeling (Pleyana, RF-Switzerland) is a peeling complex with azelaic acid. And in the Pleyana peeling serum (for problematic, combination and oily skin) - along with ferulic, mandelic and azelaic acids - manufacturers have included lactic, succinic and salicylic acids and vitamin B3.

Ferul peeling Neosbiolab (NeosBioLab) of Russian production, in addition to ferulic, lactic, citric and ascorbic acid, contains D-gluconic anhydride and retinol.

Belita (Bielita) peeling with ferulic acid (Belarusian cosmetics Belita-Viteks) also contains lactic and citric acid.

Contraindications to the procedure

Any superficial chemical peel, including with ferulic acid, is contraindicated:

  • with increased skin sensitivity;
  • with impaired integrity of the epidermis;
  • in cases of an allergic reaction with skin manifestations;
  • during pregnancy and lactation, more details -  Peeling during pregnancy
  • with fever, acute inflammatory diseases and exacerbation of chronic infections;
  • if there is a wart, nevus or active herpes rash in the area of application of the composition.

Ferul face peel should not be performed on patients with vitiligo and rosacea;

  • cancer patients, especially after recent radiation or chemotherapy; with a history of autoimmune diseases (psoriasis, SLE, rheumatoid arthritis).

Complications after the procedure

A possible complication and undesirable consequence of this procedure is swelling of the skin, as well as its chemical burn - with the development of erythema and the formation of a scab.

Read -  Peeling: indications and contraindications, complications, care

Consequences after the procedure

The exfoliation of the skin that continues for some time (about a week) is a natural (planned) result of peeling.

Care after the procedure

After ferul peeling, skin care involves:

  • an exception for 7-10 days of washing with water and applying foundation or concealer;
  • use of mild cleansers and moisturizer for the face;
  • limiting sun exposure and applying an intensely moisturizing cream with UV filters (SPF 30+) before leaving the house;
  • temporary refusal of any intense physical activity (in which sweating increases);
  • exclusion of alcoholic beverages and smoking.

In no case should you peel off exfoliating skin, as this can lead to scarring.

The effect of ferul peeling

The effect of ferul peeling claimed by the manufacturers - if we discard the clearly advertising promises of "skin renewal" - is due to the biochemical action of all components. But its result in the form of the disappearance of age spots and blackheads, a fresher appearance of the skin (improvement of its tone and texture, as well as a reduction in fine wrinkles) is temporary.

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