Care for oily hair

Currently, there is no external means that could positively affect the condition of seborrhea. The use of antiandrogens and synthetic retinoids is not justified by every patient. At the same time, external preparations with very mild "antiseboric" action are successfully used. The main requirements for such drugs are:

• Non-toxicity;
• The ability to remove excess sebum without the coarse effects of detergents and solvents that cause the skin and hair to dry out;
• Antipruritic effect;
• Bactericidal and fungicidal action;
• Normalization of horn formation and exfoliation of skin scales.

The main components of cosmetic preparations for the care of fatty hair are sulfur and its derivatives, amino acids containing sulfur, and thioethers, tar, some substances that prevent the ingress of sebum on the hair, as well as fat adsorbents.

Seru and its derivatives have long been widely used in patients with seborrhea. Positive effects include disinfectant, antifungal, keratoplastic, mild keratolytic, vasomotor, oxidoreductive, etc. At the same time, in recent years, the irritating effect of sulfur and intensive drying of the skin and hair have become more frequent when exposed to it. It is believed that the organic and mineral compounds of sulfur act more gently. Using them in seborrhea helps to get rid of the odor present in a number of patients. Examples of such compounds are polythionic acids and their alkali salts, as well as mercaptocarboxylic acids and their esters and amides. At present, among inorganic sulfur compounds, selenium disulphide is the most popular, although the ideas about the effect of this compound are very contradictory. On the one hand, its antimycotic effect is often used to treat seborrheic dermatitis. On the other hand, it was found that selenium disulphide causes an increase in the volume of sebaceous glands and sebum production by reducing the level of bacterial hydrolysis of the secretion of sebocytes. Against the background of the use of shampoos with this substance, a decrease in the content of free fatty acids by 20% or more, a simultaneous increase in the concentration of triglycerides by 160% is recorded. In addition, in some patients, selenium disulfide causes erythema and itching.

The amino acids containing sulfur are cysteine and methionine. It is known that they play an important role in the processes of keratinization, including hair. In this regard, it was quite natural to investigate their effects in seborrhea. During the analysis, they were found to be unstable and sensitive to oxidation. In addition, such substances are capable of causing allergic dermatitis and have an unpleasant odor. Synthesis of new thiol derivatives has allowed to avoid unpleasant side effects. Currently, various salts of 2-benzylthiothylamine (2-benzylthiothylamine), which are capable of inhibiting bacterial lipases, and also affect the synthesis of lipid lipids, are widely used, selectively blocking the enzymes responsible for the formation of triglycerides.

Various tar is widely used for the treatment of seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema, atopic dermatitis. Tars, regardless of their origin, have a very complex composition. They include polyphenols, high molecular acids and polyhydric alcohols, ketones, waxes. These substances have antiseptic and antipruritic properties. In recent years, there has been a high risk of carcinogenesis when tar is applied to the skin. Numerous studies have proven the safety of shampoos, including coal tar. At present, some companies have started to produce shampoos containing ichthyol, which also has a positive effect on seborrhea and seborrheic dermatitis.

To reduce the ingress and spread of sebum to the surface of the hair in recent years, special lipophobic films covering the hair have been used. They are in a small concentration added to shampoos for oily hair. The most popular are various acrylic derivatives and phosphorylated fatty acids, which possess both lipophobic and hydrophobic action.

Gelatin or casein, as well as finely divided starches and silicones are commonly used to achieve the adsorption effect. They not only absorb sebum, but also make it more dense, which reduces the apparent manifestations of liquid seborrhea. The negative quality of these drugs is that after their use, the hair becomes dull.

To care for oily hair, there is a whole series of different drugs. Widely used shampoos, which include carefully selected detergents, do not cause drying of the skin and hair. Such shampoos can be used for frequent washing and are usually marked accordingly. Recommend and so-called "dry" shampoos, which include various adsorbents. With their help, you can remove excess sebum without the use of water and detergents.

Now, in addition to traditional shampoos, various solutions and gels are offered, which are applied directly to the hair roots. They include the following:

• Alcohol solutions (40-50%) for daily use, which are used to dissolve sebum. Typically, they contain a small amount of anionic polymers, which contribute to giving the hair more volume. Used before washing.
• Lotions used after washing, with low content of alcohols. They usually contain various hydrocolloids that act as adsorbents and facilitate hair styling.
• Hydrogels, including alcohols. They become more liquid during rubbing and are more easily applied to the roots of the hair. This phenomenon creates in the patient a feeling of freshness and purity of the skin of the scalp. Gel, accumulating in the mouths of the hair follicles, prevents the spread of a large amount of sebum along the hair, and also, spreading over their surface, improves stacking. Good cosmetic results were achieved with the use of gels, which included nonionic polymers acting as adsorbents.
• Emulsions for hair treatment after washing, washed with water. The shape of the emulsion proved to be the most effective, since the rinsing process implies a very short contact with the hair, and the use of solutions did not give the desired result. Most emulsions include various clays, plant extracts, proteins and polymers for adsorbing and strengthening hair. Emulsions have a sufficiently high viscosity in order to distribute through the hair and penetrate well into the cuticle area. Usually, a small amount of detergent (surfactant) is added to their composition as an emulsifier and to facilitate washing with water.

The basic principles of caring for the scalp in people with oily hair are as follows:

• Correct shampoo selection for oily hair. In the case of manifestations of seborrheic dermatitis, the prescription of therapeutic shampoos is necessary.
• It is permissible to wash the scalp frequently only with the use of soft shampoos specially designed for frequent washing. Preferably wash the scalp in the morning.
• Use of aqueous solutions of acids (for 1 liter of warm water 1 teaspoon of table vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice) or emulsions and decoctions of herbs (nettle leaves, root of ayr, inflorescences of burdock, etc.) for rinsing hair after washing.
• It is not recommended frequent combing, use of a hot hair dryer, constant wearing of tight headgear. It is known that frequent combing promotes the spread of sebum along the entire length of the hair and stimulates its production by activating the blood supply to the scalp.
• In the conditions of the cosmetic institution, you can offer vacuum massage, cryomassage, darsonvalization, electrostatic field, ultrasound, drug electrophoresis, microcurrent therapy, therapeutic laser, as well as medical masks on the scalp. It should always be remembered that the skin of patients with seborrhea is very sensitive to any physical and chemical effects, including those specified.

In conclusion, it is pertinent to emphasize that when managing patients with alopecia of any genesis, it is necessary to remember that they observe a number of standard recommendations that should be followed, regardless of the diagnosis.

• Use mild detergents that do not change the acidity of the skin.
• When washing the scalp, it is not recommended to use excessively hot water or low temperature water.
• Avoid frequent hair washing, especially with soap or products that significantly alter the skin's surface pH.
• Use a comb made of wood with smooth, wide and rare teeth. It is not recommended to use brushes and combs with narrow, sharp and frequent prongs.
• Avoid combing hair, especially long, immediately after washing.
• Avoid the use of hair dryers for drying and styling, electrical appliances for curling hair, as well as chemical methods of curling.
• Do not wear hairstyles that require constant "scratching" of hair or intensive tightening them in a knot, do not use rubber and metal hairpins. It is preferable to fix the hair with ribbons or special devices made of cloth.
• Avoid the use of hairspray. To fix the hairstyle, the shape of the foam is preferable.
• Constantly wear a headdress suitable for the size, in the cold season, during sun exposure, cover the head and use photoprotective agents.
• Regularly, on average once every 4-6 weeks, cut the ends of the hair.

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