The concept of basic care. Basic care products

The main goal of modern skin care is to replenish lipids and ceramides of the water-lipid mantle and maintain the physiological (slightly acidic) pH of its surface. For special care and correction of age-related changes and pathological conditions of the skin, special "basic" care products are used. Modern care for any type of skin should include two main effects: gentle cleansing and adequate moisturizing.

Skin cleansing in cosmetology has the following goals:

1. Remove external dirt, scales, and excess sebum from the skin surface without increasing its further secretion.
2. Avoid "delipidization" of the skin during cleansing
3. To achieve disinfectant, keratolytic and other effects depending on the skin type.

Cleansing can be achieved in different ways: with the help of cleansing emulsions, solutions (lotions), soaps and syndets.

Cleansing emulsions (cosmetic milk, cosmetic cream) are emulsion ointments (creams) in form, they are usually used for severe dry skin, its increased sensitivity to water and detergents. Such products can be recommended for people with dry, dehydrated, sensitive skin, as well as patients with atopic dermatitis, allergic dermatitis, eczema, ichthyosis, perioral dermatitis. Cleansing emulsions do not require rinsing with water. May include mild detergents.

Solutions (lotions) are widely used for cleansing facial skin in cosmetology, in particular for acne, rosacea, and perioral dermatitis.

Detergents, or surface-active substances (SAS), are included in solutions, soaps and syndets. The following types of detergents are distinguished:

Anionic (anionic) detergents are surfactants whose molecules dissociate in water to form surface-active long-chain anions. Alkaline, metallic and organic soaps obtained by alkaline hydrolysis of fats are classified as anionic detergents. The raw materials for soap production are vegetable oils, animal fats, synthetic fatty acids, soap naphtha, salomas, rosin, waste from refining fats and oils. The process of obtaining soap (soap making) consists of saponification of the original fats with an aqueous solution of alkali during boiling. Thus, when saponifying fats with potassium alkali, liquid soaps are obtained, with sodium alkali - solid soaps.

Cationic (cationically active) detergents are surfactants whose molecules dissociate in solution to form a surface-active cation with a long hydrophilic chain. Cationic surfactants include amines and their salts, as well as quaternary ammonium compounds. Cationic detergents are less effective than anionic ones, since they reduce surface tension to a lesser extent, but they can interact chemically with the surface of the adsorbent, for example, with bacterial cellular proteins, causing a bactericidal effect. This is why cationic detergents are used as antiseptics (for example, chlorhexidine bigluconate). They are included in shampoos.

Nonionic (nonionic) detergents (syndets) are surfactants that do not dissociate into ions in water and do not create a charge on the skin surface. Their solubility is due to the presence of hydrophilic ether and hydroxyl groups in the molecules, most often a polyethyleneglycol chain. They are less sensitive to salts that cause water hardness than anionic and cationic detergents, and are also well compatible with other surfactants.

Amphoteric (ampholytic) detergents are surfactants that contain a hydrophilic radical and a hydrophobic part in the molecule that can be a proton acceptor or donor, depending on the pH of the solution. Common amphoteric detergents are used as an emulsifier in the manufacture of creams (emulsions).

The composition of the detergent of the cleanser creates a certain environment on the skin surface. Thus, anionic detergents create an alkaline environment (pH 8-12), nonionic - slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6). Many companies produce pH neutral detergents (pH 7), the acidity of which is due to two types of detergents (soap and syndet) included in their composition.

The most important task at present is the selection of modern detergents. Long-term and frequent use of conventional detergents and cosmetics with pH> 7.0 significantly disrupts the barrier properties of the skin. Conventional alkaline detergents increase the alkalization of the stratum corneum, which leads to cell swelling and, accordingly, predisposes to maceration. This, in turn, increases the permeability of the epidermis, including for potential allergens. Long-term use of aggressive detergents causes transepidermal water loss and dry skin. This results in microcracks that can serve as entry points for secondary infection. In addition, cleansers with a high pH cause compensatory hypersecretion of sebum. In order to reduce the irritating effect of the cleanser, various lipids are included in its composition to create a protective film on the surface of the stratum corneum - fatty acid esters, wax esters, ceramides.

An ideal detergent should not irritate the skin and be non-allergenic. Due to the fact that only detergents containing synthetic non-ionic detergents (syndets) not only do not damage the skin, but also help restore its barrier function, only representatives of this group can be recommended for washing people with sensitive, dehydrated skin, patients with atopic dermatitis, per and oral dermatitis, eczema, acne.

For the care of the genital and perineal area in men, mild detergents that do not change the pH of the skin surface (syndets) are recommended. For the so-called "intimate care" in women, special detergents with acidity adapted to the specified areas are indicated. It is known that the pH of the vagina is low and is 3.8-4.5, therefore, detergents must correspond to the specified range. Such products may include anti-inflammatory (for example, chamomile extract, burdock, etc.), disinfectant and deodorizing additives (for example, Femilin intimate hygiene gel, "Uriage" or Oriflame intimate hygiene gel, etc.). They are especially indicated for patients with genital itching, dryness, inflammation and can be used for climacteric xerosis, various dermatoses in the genital and paragenital localization, as well as during the treatment of sexually transmitted infections. In cosmetology, these products are used after tattooing and piercing in intimate areas. In some cases, products with a more alkaline pH are prescribed as an adjunct to therapy for genital candidiasis (for example, a mild detergent for intimate and general hygiene, Saforel, FIK Medical, etc.). For the purpose of individual prevention of sexually transmitted infections, as well as simply as disinfectants, 0.05% chlorhexidine bigluconate solution, Cidipol, Miramistin, Citeal and other products are used.

The goal of daily skin moisturizing is to adequately hydrate the skin and prevent transepidermal water loss. Three groups of substances are used for this purpose: humectants, film-forming substances, and keratolytic agents.

Humectants allow the water contained in the stratum corneum to be introduced deep into the skin. Modern humectants include the following:

• Natural moisturizing factors (NMF): pyrrolidone carbolic acid, urea (at a concentration of up to 10%) and lactic acid (at a concentration of 5-10%).
• Polyols are low-molecular hygroscopic compounds, including glycerol, sorbitol, and propylene glycol.
• Macromolecules (glycosaminoglycans, collagen, elastin, DNA) and liposomes.

Skin moisturizing is also achieved by reducing transepidermal water loss. This is possible by applying a film consisting of lipids to the surface of the stratum corneum. Film-forming substances include substances that make up the oil phase of any emulsion (cream). Vaseline, paraffin, perhydrosqualene, various silicones, natural oils rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids (fish oil, primrose, grape seed, etc.), wax, lanolin, and some fatty alcohols are currently used as the oil phase. The use of film-forming substances is the oldest method of moisturizing.

The use of various keratolytic agents (salicylic acid, hydroxy acids, urea - in concentrations above 10%. propylene glycol) is an additional method of skin moisturizing. As a rule, these substances are used for hyperkeratosis accompanying xerosis of the skin, photoaging and other conditions. Currently, keratolytics are widely prescribed in cosmetology for skin peeling procedures, one of the goals of which is rejuvenation.

As a rule, moisturizers are added to emulsions (creams). For skin with pronounced sebum secretion (oily), emulsions of the "oil in water" type are recommended, and for dry, dehydrated skin - the "water in oil" type.

A fairly new product in cosmetology, serum, also has a moisturizing effect. Serum is applied to cleansed skin under day or night cream. It has the form of an emulsion or solution. The light, unsaturated texture of serum allows you to apply cream on top of it, which enhances the moisturizing effect.

Additional skin care products also include toning solutions and masks.

Tonic solutions, or tonics, were originally created to normalize the pH of the skin surface after cleansing with soap and water. It is known that the alkaline environment on the skin surface after using soap lasts up to 6 hours, therefore, its negative effect lasts just as long. The use of a tonic in such cases allows you to "balance" the effect of chelating detergents. Tonics are aqueous or, less often, alcohol solutions with the addition of various acids, humectants, lipids; depending on the skin type and the dominant aesthetic problem, they include disinfectants, bleaching, keratolytic agents.

Masks are the most traditional means of skin care in cosmetology. In fact, a mask is not a specific form, but a special method of applying it to the skin surface, which is typical for cosmetology. The main purposes of masks in cosmetology can be the following:

• Improves the surface texture and appearance of the skin by removing dead skin cells and dissolving and absorbing sebum.
• Skin hydration.
• Reducing the porosity of the skin.
• Creating positive feelings, etc.

Depending on the mechanism of action, masks are divided into drying, cleansing, disinfecting, moisturizing, nourishing, etc. The choice of a particular mask depends on the skin type.

Masks are applied to cleansed skin for 10-20 minutes, then washed off with water or blotted. They are traditionally applied to the skin of the face, but in recent years, masks for individual areas have been widely used, such as the contour of the eyes, lips, neck and décolleté. They can be applied to large areas of the skin in body cosmetology. In form, the mask is most often an emulsion (cream) or ointment. Powder, shaken suspension, and gel forms can be used. Modern masks, depending on the goals of the manufacturer, can consist of a dry base and a solution (for example, hydrocolloid masks). Masks consisting of fabric impregnated with various agents are popular. In this case, the fabric is moistened in the solution immediately before application. Masks are produced consisting of fabric impregnated with agents and soaked in a solvent. Masks containing various acrylates capable of polymerization are widely used. After exposure, the mask thickens and adheres tightly to the skin surface, allowing it to be removed like a "stocking". Such masks reduce keratotic layers (for example, with age-related skin changes), as well as areas of follicular hyperkeratosis (for example, with acne). Masks can be applied in a salon or at home. Traditionally, home masks include various food products (berries, fruits, vegetables, sour cream, etc.).

For daily moisturizing of the skin of the body, special moisturizing creams are used, made on the principle of the emulsion "oil in water". To moisturize the back of the skin of the hands and protect against adverse external influences, emulsions of the type "water in oil" with the addition of film-forming substances are used.

Modern basic body skin care includes the use of deodorants in the form of cream, gel, solution (spray, etc.). According to the classification of E. P. J. Seits and D. I. Richardson (1989), there are 3 types of substances included in deodorants:

• deodorizing fragrances;
• ingredients that reduce or eliminate odor;
• substances that prevent the appearance of odor.

Deodorant fragrances include both perfumes and other substances. In particular, it is known that some flower oils used as deodorants can themselves produce an unpleasant odor. To enhance their pleasant aroma, various terpenes are used (a-ionone, a-methylionone, citral, geranyl formate and geranyl acetate). Flavonoid derivatives are also used, which temporarily inactivate the sensitive receptors of the nasal mucosa.

Ingredients that reduce or eliminate odor include sodium and potassium bicarbonate, zinc glycinate, zinc carbonate, magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide, and magnesium carbonate. These substances are believed to be able to chemically neutralize short-chain fatty acids, which are the source of unpleasant odor. This group also includes various absorbent components: aluminum and potassium sulfate, dibutylamide-2-naphtholic acid, isonanoyl-2-methylpiperidide, zinc and magnesium salts of polycarbolic acids. Plant agents such as tea, grapes, natural essential oils of lavender, rosemary, etc. also have an absorbent effect.

Substances that prevent the appearance of odor are represented by antibacterial and disinfecting agents. They actively suppress the activity of gram-positive micrococci and lipophilic diphtheroids, i.e. those microorganisms that cause the smell of sweat. Until recently, neomycin was widely used, however, due to the high frequency of allergic dermatitis, this drug has been abandoned in recent years. Traditionally, they include aluminum chloride, boric acid, benzoic acid, chloramine-T, chlorothymol, formaldehyde, hexamine, oxyquinoline sulfate, sodium perborate, zinc salicylate, zinc sulfocarbonate, zinc sulfide, zinc peroxide. Deodorants contain derivatives of undecylepic acid, ammonium compounds, triclocarban, triclosan, and various antioxidants (butylhydroxyanisole - BHA, butylhydroxytoluene - BHT). In recent years, propylene glycol, hydrogen peroxide, alkyl salicylanilides, halosalicylanilides, prenylamine, thiocarbamates, etc. have been widely used. In addition, substances with antiperspirant properties prevent the appearance of odor. Previously, tannin, glutaraldehyde, and other substances were used for this purpose, and currently aluminum salts (acetate, benzoate, boroformate, bromide, citrate, gluconate, etc.) are used. The most popular is aluminum chlorohydrate (ACH), a combination of aluminum and zirconium salts is also used. It is known that these salts are capable of binding to keratin fibrils and being temporarily deposited in the lumen of the excretory duct of the sweat gland, as well as transforming fatty acids with a short carbon chain.